Albania

When I first stepped off my bus in Gjirokastra, Albania, no map in hand, I was immediately assisted by a girl who said she'd been watching me. She spoke English! First she showed me where to exchange money, then pointed out which bus I should get on across the street to get to my hotel. I reached into my pack to get her a magnet and she saw money, actually Turkish lyras. She got upset because she thought I was going to pay her and actually started running away. There I was, holding the magnet up as high as my arm would reach shouting 'wait!' at the top of my lungs. She turned, saw it wasn't cash, and came back. When  I left the bank and crossed the street, my bus was gone, but she came back to put me on the right one, tell the driver where to put me out, and off I went. All I know about her is that she works in radio.

The next magnet also stayed in Gjirokastra with this girl who runs a shop in what is called 'the Neck' of the old market area. The market is long gone. This girl willingly gives directions to anyone coming by and asking, a self-appointed tour guide. When she found me drawing a street scene near her shop, she went inside, then brought out a folder of her own drawings. What a coincidence.

The last went to a vendor of odd things at the street market in the city of Korce. I found one small, square saucer, an old piece with a lily pattern on it. He had sets of other designs but I only wanted that one. When I asked how many lek he wanted for it, he asked me if I was German. When I told him I was American, he put his hand over his heart and told me it was a gift. So I gave him a gift, too. A magnet.

Thessaloniki, Greece

I visited Thessaloniki in late May and, at the hostel they recommended that I eat at "The Prythaneion" in old town if I wanted traditional food. I went in, was seated, my order taken and placed with the wife who cooked down below, then the food arrived in a little dumbwaiter type of lift, hot and tasty. My first dinner was a stuffed chicken breast with a cheese and mushroom sauce, decadent and delicious. The next night I ordered appetizers and drew the street scene outside while I waited. The third night I had grilled sardines with all manner of salads. I began to suspect I was getting special treatment when I got two pieces of cream cake for dessert and was presented with a glass of white wine to go with my fish. I gave a magnet to the owner and his wife, not only because of the great food, but because I liked them.

View from my table.